Sunday, March 2, 2014

Vietnam

I am a lucky girl. I am lucky because I had the wonderful opportunity to spend a good portion of my Spring Festival vacation in Vietnam. I crowdsourced most of my funding using Go Fund Me (wouldn't use the service again because it was quite expensive, but you live and learn). I was constantly amazed by the generosity of the people in my life. People gave what they could, even if it was no more than $10. I spent two weeks on the coast of Vietnam exploring all the cities and towns I could fit in. As it turns out, two weeks wasn't nearly enough. Vietnam is so beautiful and so complex that I think a month is the bare minimum I would have needed to spend there to do everything. I didn't even get to touch the highlands or the inner Mekong Delta. But it was still one of the greatest things I've ever done.  


I traveled solo, which was a pretty scary concept. Single woman, traveling alone in Southeast Asia. I thought I would be lonely. I thought I would get bored. But really, it turns out I love traveling by myself. I get to do whatever I want whenever I want. I can eat whatever funky street food or mystery meat I please. I can wander whatever alleys and nooks look interesting to me without having to consider if another person wants to, or if they're tired, or if they're veg or vegan or whatever dietary restrictions most of my friends seem to have. It was extremely liberating.  I also made friends along the way.


This is Khoi and Nga, we had grilled goat together in Saigon. They're pretty cool.

I could totally live in Saigon. I loved how graceful the city was. All the lovely French architectural elements blended with Vietnamese character into something really special. 


And the local flavor abounds.


I also went boating on the Mekong River.


And I also adored Saigon's beer street in the backpacker district. You pretty much just grab a chair and start talking. Instant friends.


Hoi An is one of my favorite places in the world. 


Who couldn't love that view? I almost up and moved there on the spot. Perhaps deciding against it was a bad call? I want to live in Vietnam. It's a wonderful place. Maybe State would station me there? Dreams sometimes can come true...

Saturday, January 18, 2014

Mama Li

I wanted to write this post a month ago, didn’t have time, and now all the brilliant thoughts I had on this topic have been edged out by all the busy that has happened since. We’ll see how this goes.

It all started with Christmas. More accurately, it began with the Christmas shopping season, which in China involves a hellish worst nightmare of tinny pop versions of Christmas carols set to a pop beat and backed up by the most frightening children’s choir available. It also involves sales and demented-looking Santa Clause faces plastered everywhere. In short, it involves all the worst parts of Christmas without any of its redeeming qualities.

I am not allowed to evangelize to my students, nor would I want to, but Chinese Christmas was invented by WalMart to sell crap and all the hype made me sick. My students had absolutely no idea that Christmas was supposed to be about anything but buying things. There was no sense of togetherness or goodwill or any of the lovely things I associate with the season. Christians in the US are upset by the commercialization of Christmas, but they should see China. Many people in the US no longer celebrate Christmas religiously, but they still have the cultural background of Christmas, which gives the holiday depth. China’s big togetherness holiday is Spring Festival/Chinese New Year, so it doesn’t matter that Christmas is a big buying spree to them. But it mattered to me.

They were pretty perplexed by Thanksgiving, spending a whole day being thankful and all that, so I decided to teach them about giving back and charity during the holidays.

The Chinese don’t have the same concept of community service that historically Judeo-Christian or Muslim countries do. Confucianism, filial piety, and communism essentially made it unnecessary. If you lived with your family for your whole life, nobody was truly lacking. Giving to the less fortunate is also unnecessary in communism. Regardless of reality, in communism everyone is equal, nobody experiences need and charity would probably be considered bourgeois and counter-revolutionary. There is also no need for volunteerism because the state takes care of all those causes people would normally volunteer for.

The problem now is that the old ways are fading away. The one child policy means that there are only two children caring for upwards of four relatives. And the move away from communism means that there is virtually no safety net for the old and dispossessed. Community service is necessary for the first time in China, and people are beginning understand why.

For the lesson, I had the students close their eyes and imagine their perfect world. In groups they then had to agree on a pressing problem and create a poster for a community service project to tackle it. I explained how Christmas and the holidays are traditionally a time of giving and that many people participate in community service projects during this time. I was intrigued to see what problems they chose. The most common issue by far was the environment.



The second most popular issue was the ubiquity of stray dogs and cats in Linyi.



I was delighted to see the students care about issues. The environment is a huge issue here, not just smog, but trash. But I also found it intriguing that they cared more about homeless dogs and cats than homeless people. Granted, homelessness is not a huge problem in Linyi. In a farming community, it’s unlikely that anyone will be homeless. However, this does not mean that there is a lack of want. So that lesson was a mixed bag for me emotionally. On that one hand I was so proud of my students for having opinions and for caring about an issue, on the other hand I was disappointed that they didn’t seem to care very much for their fellow human beings.

But then Mama Li came over. In my eyes, Mama Li is the epitome of all that is good about the Confucian family system. Apparently the Li house was undergoing some serious renovation, so Mama Li decided to come visit her daughter for a few days. It was glorious. She cooked for us, cleaned, never let us do the dishes. She showered love and affection on us in every way possible. She pushed food like crazy. She taught me how to make dumplings!





Having her around made the constant ache for my own mother subside slightly.  






If every family were as caring as Mama Li and insisted on caring for its members in the same way that she cares for Mary and I, then I can understand why community service isn’t necessary. If you family is your community, then the service happens every moment of every day. If the system works as it should, then your whole life becomes one long act of service. In a way it’s far more sincere than volunteering, which comes into most people’s lives when it’s convenient. But when you live with the community you serve, there is no convenient time. You serve. And that can become a greater act of love than any seasonally-dictated giving ever could be.